Trip Report – Mt Chimborazo (Veintemilla), Ecuador

– 6,267m (20,561ft)
– Lat,Lon 1°46’S, 78°8’W
– Summit Date: December 6, 2004

The alarms went off at 11:00pm. We departed for the mountain at almost exactly midnight. The trail started as an easy path, but quickly changed to a rocky scree trail. Even though the trail was marked with cairns, it was somewhat difficult to follow. And it was important to be on the correct trail, as we were seeking a break in the rock face called the ‘entrance’. After an hour and a little less than 200mts, we managed to gain the entrance. The scree-rock was slippery and iced-up, but no-one fell. Crampons were donned and the rope teams formed. Richard and I were with Roberto, the local guide. Jens and Uwe were with Juan. I was at the end of the rope team, not too sure why, as Richard appeared stronger than I. We started to traverse along and up the mountain. It was somewhat difficult to see the route, although we had clear skies.

After another hour we had made a total of 350mts from the refugio. It was starting to look like we were on pace for a 7hr summit as hoped. We headed up to the ridge, and once gained, experienced the full force of the wind. The ridge was exposed dirt/rock, so there was no problem with either balance or footing. After 15 minutes we dropped down off the ridge onto more protected slopes. From here the mountain was covered in nice frozen snow. The slog up the mountain was to begin in earnest.

We followed footprints from a previous party up the mountain and the occasional wand. The slope was between 20 and 40 degrees with only the occasional sign of crevasses or holes. Did not see any large crevasses at all. The walking pace and rhythm were excellent. Around 3:20am we stopped for food and water and waited for the German rope team to join us. They were usually 50mts behind us. But after 10 minutes or so they had not caught up yet and we were getting cold from the inactivity. So Robert had us set off. The wind was now very strong and also picking up ice and this in turn was being deposited onto us and our rope/equipment. We continued until 4:20am, putting us 650mts above the refugio.

The next stage seemed to go on forever. I knew we were beyond 800mts from the refugio, but was hoping for 900mts. Not a bad guess as the watch showed 850mts. It was miserably cold at this point. Everything was iced. My gore-text pants and jacket (including hood) had a layer of 4-5mm ice on it. The rope and prussics were iced-over. It really looked like we were had come from the arctic. Robert suggested that the summit was not possible, due to the more difficult terrain above 6,000mts and the extreme wind conditions. However, it was agreed to go another hour and then make a decision. I was desperately hoping that the appearance of the sun in an hour would warm our bodies and that the wind would ease off. An hour later we left the snow slope and finally gained a flat section at 6,000mts.

The sun had risen, but was a mere glow in the clouded sky. And it was still positioned on the far side of the mountain. But at last we could see the objective and how we could get there. And we could see the ice-walls about 100mts above us. Although the wind had not eased off as hoped, there was no longer any talk of stopping before the summit. It was 5:36am in the morning and the summit was only 1hr 30mins away. We traversed right and then climbed above the ice wall. The dome of the summit was visible, but not the actual top. After another 45mins we crested the dome and it was just five minutes hike to the top (Veintemilla). The decision to go to the higher summit (Whymper) was a no-brainer. Conditions were so bad, we opted to head down. There was no view from the top, as we were enclosed in cloud. The wind was howling even more on top. And we were getting no warming effect from the sun (wherever it was). We stayed on top long enough to have food, water and take some pictures.

The descent was straight-forward. Although the snow had no chance to soften. We were down in 2hrs 26mins. Both Richard and I were exhausted. The wind continued to blow on the way down. We arrived at the refugio at 9:15am. Erich was up and about, but the Germans were sleeping. Apparently they turned back at 5,800mts. Jens found it too difficult and I can imagine Uwe was more than a little disappointed. I am pretty sure Richard, Robert and I were the only people to summit that day.