That Phonom and Khemmarat

Thursday, January 30, 2014

Our hotel was very noisy. Other guests (‘locals’) arriving back late and making lots of noise – for hours. So, off to find “Good Morning Vietnam Cafe” for a much needed coffee.

As we headed south we were not sure where we would finish the day, but we wanted to be within striking distance of the “3000 Holes” for tomorrow. Unfortunately the road did not follow the Mekong so we did not have the river views. Instead we had country views and everywhere we drove farmers were drying some sort of chipped root on the edge of the road. No idea what the root was however.

(1) We use the Lonely Planet as our ‘guide book’ for accommodation, sites, restaurants (along with internet, eg Tripadvisor, and travelers’ recommendations) and we don’t always agree with it to say the least. So when I read their write-up on Wat Phra That Phanom, I was a tad skeptical, to say the least. But what do you know: I was blown away with it – and I believe so was Stephen. The temple complex was quite compact and filled with gleaming white and gold buildings and statues.

So for this ‘Wat’ The Lonely Planet got it totally right, “This temple is a potent and beautiful place; even if you’re feeling templed-out, you’ll likely be impressed”.

The 53.6m ‘Taht’ at Wat Phra That Phanom.
Maybe the World’s Largest Gong?

As we’d skipped breakfast we stopped for lunch at Mukdahan. Another town very similar to Nahkon Phnom with streets and streets full of little of shops. Also a large market located near the river bank. Lunch was nice and we chatted to a nice couple living locally, Marco and Jo. Marco is originally from Switzerland and has chosen Thailand as his final home.

Reading, drinking and enjoying the Mekong

We continued south with an eye open for lodgings. Lonely Planet told us that there is no accommodation in this neck of the woods. We found a very nice place at Khemmarat to hang our hat for the night. We sipped beers looking over the river as the sun set behind us. The hotel was empty, so that night we slept well.

Some kind of chipped root drying on the side of the road (2)

(1) by Caroline.

(2) We think we’ve found it: Cassava root. We did hear about tapioca plants and we did notice a fermented, vinegary smell.